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- HOW TO MAKE A HOMEMADE PIPE SLITTER PORTABLE
- HOW TO MAKE A HOMEMADE PIPE SLITTER TRIAL
- HOW TO MAKE A HOMEMADE PIPE SLITTER FREE
Two 3/4" steel tabs were welded on to the sides of the reducer that were tapped with a hole (3-32 bolts is what I used) to accept a bolt for mounting the orifice assembly. Next the tube was welded on to the 3/4" to 1 1/2" black iron reducer fitting, the reducer fitting makes for a great burner intake for air and mount for the orifice. The end of the tube was welded shut after crimping (this could be brazed as well). This allows the burner tube to be crimped and "capped" off, making a flat spot where a hole can be drilled and used for mounting the burner. The end of the stainless steel tube was heated and then bent closed in a vice.
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HOW TO MAKE A HOMEMADE PIPE SLITTER PORTABLE
I used my portable bandsaw and made short work of this but a hack saw could be used too. I first was going to drill burner holes in it but it would take far too long and far too much work so I decided I would cut small thin slots in the tube spaced 1cm apart for the burner "holes". The body of the burner is made from a piece of stainless steel tubing, stainless is really hard to work with as it work hardens.
HOW TO MAKE A HOMEMADE PIPE SLITTER FREE
Be sure to ensure a leak free seal between all the fittings by using PTFE tape or pipe dope to seal the threads. Thread the ball valve onto the other end of the nipple. Once the pipe nipple has been threaded through the hole, cap off the opening of the tube with the cap that has the orifice hole drilled in from a previous step. This hole will thread the 1/8" brass NPT pipe nipple. Using lots of cutting oil cut threads into the hole. This hole is the orifice and propane will flow out from this hole at high velocity.Īlso pro-tip, if the drill bits are too small for the chuck of your drill use some metal tape and wrap it around the drill bit so it will make the shaft large enough to be grabbed by the chuck.Ĭenter punch the 3/4" steel stock and drill a hole that corresponds to the 1/8" NPT tap. The center of the 1/8" brass NPT end cap was center punched and then drilled out using a 1.2mm drill bit, cutting oil was used too. 1/8" brass NPT pipe nipple (length is dependent on the application).1.2 mm - just right with a bit of yellow but a very strong flame.1/16" - too big - lots of yellow but a very powerful flame.
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HOW TO MAKE A HOMEMADE PIPE SLITTER TRIAL
Propane needs to mix with air to burn at a specific ratio, but with trial and error I was able to get the burner to burn with a nice blue flame. The mixed propane and air then is forced out of the burner holes or slots and when ignited it burns. This burner design works off the venturi effect, as gas is being forced out through a small orifice mounted at the end of the burner, it pulls air along and mixes inside the burner tube. So lets talk about theory, at least in my layman's terms: Welder with cast iron welding rods or MIG Welder with stainless steel wire (this makes things easier but it is possible to braze the parts together as well with a propane torch).Tap and Die set (8-32 tap and 1/8" NPT tap).Small Drill bits (1mm or 1.2mm) - you can get a set off amazon if you can't find them locally.Flare fitting to go from the propane hose to 1/8" NPT thread.Low pressure BBQ regulator and hose (depending on how many burners you hook up you will need to increase the capacity of the regulator).3/4" to 1 1/2" black iron reducer fitting.1" x 1/16" stainless steel tubing (could substitute this with regular steel but stainless will last longer).This is what I used but other materials could be used as well depending on the application: